National World – by Marion Ainge
I’m head over heels in love with small boat sailing
An unforgettable motor yacht cruise around the Cyclades Islands of Greece
When it comes to sailing, I can identify a ship from a boat.
My father was in the Royal Navy, so port and starboard, bow and stern are terms I’m familiar with.
But ask me to hoist the main sail or let go and haul and I’d be all at sea.
On a Variety Cruises’ motor yacht cruise from Piraeus, Athens, around the Cyclades Islands of Greece I get to know the ropes (not literally) and to love everything about small boat sailing. Arriving at Athens Airport, it’s less than an hour’s journey by road to the Piraeus Marina Zea harbour where we have an easy embarkation and with the blue and white flag of Greece flying, we set sail in the afternoon.
With only 26 of us on board (capacity 49) we soon bond and become our own international family at sea, with members from the USA, Australia, Slovenia, Germany, Spain, Italy and three of us from the UK. It’s interesting to interact with adventurous people from different countries and cultures. The age group ranges from 24 to a sprightly, fun-loving 91-year old, Irene, who’s travelling with her son. If Irene can manage the fairly steep spiral staircases between decks, almost anyone can.
Variety Cruises is a family business which was established in 1949. The company gained the Passenger Line of the year Award (Greek Shipping Awards) in 2024. Our vessel, Galileo, is a 48 metre, traditional, three-masted, 30-year old motor sailer, refurbished in 2020. There are eight motor sailers in the fleet and alternative voyages include Tahiti, The Seychelles, Africa, Croatia and Italy, Malta and French Polynesia.
Galileo has 24 cabins but don’t expect a theatre with nightly West End-type shows or a swimming pool. However, you can swim almost daily in the sparkling, turquoise Aegean sea. Galileo is nothing like a cruise ship and nothing like I’ve ever experienced but I love it! Immediately, the warm, welcoming ambience is evident and we’re greeted with a refreshing drink and smiles all around. Three decks include a lounge/restaurant, lower and upper deck cabins, a bar area and a glorious, full-length sun deck with loungers, chairs and tables.
My lower deck cabin is surprisingly spacious with a comfortable double bed, shower room, fridge, plenty of storage space, air conditioning and two port holes. Occasionally if there’s a swell, the sea water splashes on to the port holes resembling a washing machine rinse cycle. Cabins are cleaned twice daily. In the lower cabins there may be some engine/anchor noise when the yacht sets sail during the night. Anyone concerned about this might consider booking a higher deck cabin.
The 20-strong crew are engaging, helpful and clearly happy. I think they’re enjoying looking after us. Chirpy cruise director Katerina, 31, keeps us informed and updated about daily destinations and activities. Waiter, Komang from Indonesia, shows us photos of his newborn son. On a warm, starry night, Captain Nikos, 50, joins the dancing at the Sunset and Shots party. We link hands and dance in a circle to Zorba on the Greek Night.
Our two very pleasant Egyptian sailors help us on and off the RIB (necessary for those, including myself, who haven’t the longest stride!) which takes us to and from the beaches on almost daily swim stops – Irene can do it. Most of us wear water shoes as the shore can be pebbly when we step out and paddle the last few yards in the crystal clear Aegean sea. Sometimes we have a tiny beach to ourselves. It’s mid-summer and very hot, often 32 degrees, so plenty of sun cream and hats are essential. Fins, snorkels and goggles are available.
Breakfast and lunch or dinner is usually buffet style with a couple of table service days at dinner. Two long tables accommodate all the guests. Food celebrates the ‘Flavours of Greece” and is delicious, freshly cooked, varied and plentiful. I love the real honeycomb at breakfast, the Paradosiaki Tiropita traditional, rich cheese-filled flaky pastries, Greek salads and baklava. Fruit, biscuits and cake are available all day. Drinks are extra, but we enjoy complimentary ouzo and cocktail tasting.
We unpack quickly and soon arrive at the first of our Cyclades’ islands, the charming harbour town of Poros, where it’s fairly quiet with just a few people having a coffee, a cold beer or glass of wine at a seafront cafe. It’s just a short stop before we set sail for uninhabited Poliegos, where we have the beach all to ourselves followed by a barbecue lunch on board.
It’s so hot in volcanic, dreamy Santorini (named after Saint Irene). The Eastern Mediterranean mid- summer temperatures are always high but alternatively you can choose a Variety cruise in May/June or September/October. We’re relieved that the incredible archaeological treasures of a dig at Akrotiri can be viewed in comfort as the site is covered. This popular island accommodates around 8,000 international visitors a day in peak season and around 3.4m per year. The two-hour tour is a bit of a challenge in 32 degrees, so in our free time, we take the obligatory photo of a cruise ship, which looks like a toy boat in a bath from the famous viewpoint and seek out the shade of a cafe.
In Delos, just a 20-minute boat ride from Mykonos, there’s little or no shade so we carry umbrellas as we wander slowly around the open archaeological site of this sacred island. Here, the huge, famous marble lions are the faithful guardians of the Sacred Lake.
Mykonos comes alive at night, its harbour lights twinkling as we arrive by sea bus. The harbour front cafe bars and restaurants are packed with the young, tanned and beautiful. The rest of us explore the winding, cobbled back streets, and see the famous windmills and Little Venice. Best not to look at the prices in the high end shops, though!
Capital of the Cycladic islands, Syros ,is upmarket and classy with glossy, white mega yachts in the harbour. But I always look forward to going home to the comfort and familiarity of Galileo.
I couldn’t have imagined how much I would enjoy this incredible adventure. Small boat cruising will certainly be on my list again.